After exploring many of BC's Southern Gulf Islands, we felt it was time to explore the less-travelled islands of the north.
Hornby Island always piqued our interest. It may be famed for its sandy beaches and warm ocean swimming, but what intrigued us was its counterculture of artists and intellectuals who arrived in the late 1960s/early 1970s.
You won't get a cookie-cutter island experience here. The island has developed a unique identity over time and is still filled with creatives that contribute to its bohemian character.
We cover 27 fun things to do on Hornby Island, the best time to visit, how to get there and 5 things to know before you go.
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Best time to visit Hornby Island
Planning which time to visit Hornby Island is essential since the island doesn't officially "come alive" until its short summer season.
If you're excited to visit the artisan market, attend live music events, dine at restaurants and visit spots like studios and wineries, you will need to plan accordingly.
Best time to visit Hornby Island:
- May Long Weekend to end of June - on weekends
- July/August - Wednesdays-Sundays
- September - on weekends
These months see the warmest weather and least amount of rain. July/August is when the island really opens up with the Artisan Market running on both Saturdays and Wednesdays.
We visited in June and learned that most studios aren't set up for visits until July, however, you can see lots of these artisans at the market on Saturday.
Some restaurants and wineries are also only open during weekends in the "shoulder season" (May/June and September).
There is a handy tourist map you can get at the ferry terminal that lists cool spots, but the times aren't always accurate. For example, it said Hornby Island Winery was open in June, however it was actually set to open in July.
Google's hours are also usually inaccurate - check the business's social media pages instead.
How to get to Hornby Island
Driving to Hornby Island is an enjoyable experience. As you head north of Parksville on Vancouver Island, the highway becomes quieter with lush trees and blue mountains leading the way.
From Vancouver Island, two short cable ferries and a drive across Denman Island will bring you to Hornby Island.
How to get to Hornby Island from Vancouver Island
- Take Highway 19 north to Buckley Bay.
- From Buckley Bay, take the 10-minute ferry to Denman Island. The route is first-come first-served. When you buy your ticket, say you're going to Hornby Island.
- Once you arrive on Denman Island, it's a 15-minute drive to Gravelly Bay to take your last ferry.
- The ferry from Gravelly Bay to Hornby Island takes about 10 minutes and is first come-first served.
Note: the times posted on the schedule aren't accurate as the ferry runs on "shuttle mode", making as many trips as possible to get people across. We left at 10:45 am instead of 11:00 am for example.
How to get to Hornby Island from Vancouver
From Vancouver, take the 1 hour 40 minute ferry from Horseshoe Bay to Departure Bay in Nanaimo. Ferry reservations are highly recommended for this route, especially during summer months.
Once you arrive at Departure Bay in Nanaimo, follow steps #1-4 above!
🚗 Don't have a car? Compare rental rates with DiscoverCars27 Best Things to Do in Hornby Island
1. Discover Hornby Island's unique architecture and creative touches along its tiny roads
When we arrived on Hornby Island, we felt like Dorothy waking in the colourful Land of Oz.
Every house is unique, reflecting its owner's imagination and architectural style. Many structures have curved rooflines, like different types of mushrooms scattered throughout the forest.
Even the cemetery is a sight in itself. Traditional headstones have been replaced by unique symbolic items, including a mushroom statue, a bicycle, a rack of antlers and even a chainsaw.
Exploring Hornby Island
Hornby Island's creative touches are best discovered as you drive down the tiny quiet roads. Get the tunes blasting on the local radio (96.5) and get exploring.
Don't miss the Community Hall that looks like a huge magic mushroom and check out the farm stands for goodies and baked treats.
2. Start your day at the Hornby Island Juice Bar & Fruit Stand
Hornby Island Juice Bar & Fruit Stand
Ease into your day with a stop at the Hornby Island Juice Bar & Fruit Stand. We wish we had this place back home on Salt Spring Island.
Their smoothie bowls are perfectly thick because they're made in a hand-crank press without any added liquid.
We ordered one with bananas and blueberries, topped with granola, hemp hearts, chia seeds, coconut, goji berries and fresh fruit, before heading off to explore the island.
They also make smoothies with homemade oat or coconut milk, along with fresh juices made from seasonal fruits, vegetables and herbs.
Right next door, you'll find a fruit stand where you can pick up fresh produce for the beach or a picnic later in the day.
3. Shop at Ringside Market
Ringside Market is the island's central gathering place, where locals and visitors come to shop and eat.
Tiny wooden shops encircle a common area with picnic tables, benches and a large cherry plum tree at its centre. This is also where you'll find the island's grocery store (Co-op) and gas station.
Browse the cute boutiques for some unique items:
- Hornby Creative - our favourite store with a great selection of local artisanal products, including housewares, clothing, art and jewelry. We bought an Ocean Plasket - a pretty basket made from reclaimed marine rope and fishing line.
- Island Potters - sells pottery from a variety of local artisans.
- Celestial Sphere - sells aromatherapy oils and bohemian-style jewelry and clothing
4. Have a picnic at Grassy Point
Gorgeous views from Grassy Point on Hornby Island
Grassy Point is a favourite spot with locals to have a picnic. Go during golden hour to see the long grasses, ocean and mountains beautifully light up. It's a gorgeous spot.
5. See water tanks turned art installations
Hornby Island's water tanks turned art installations are a prime example of the creative touches you'll find throughout the island.
Why not make eyesores into eye-pleasing art? Our favourite was the Andy Warhol-inspired giant tomato soup can.
We found three water tanks on the island:
6. Sunbathe on Hornby Island's famous beaches
Hornby Island is famed for having some of the best beaches in British Columbia.
Big Tribune Bay Beach is the most known for its soft white sand that doesn't stick to your feet and warm ocean water. The crescent-shaped beach gets busy and is popular with families.
✔️ Top Tip: bring bocce ball for low tide
If you're looking for a quieter, laidback beach, check out Little Tribune Bay Beach.
The clothing-optional beach doesn't have the soft sand of its next-door neighbour, but there are cool seating areas made from driftwood along the shore.
We saw a younger crowd here, with locals hanging out with friends over after-work drinks.
7. Go glamping at Fossil Beach Farm
Outside of the tent is where the magic happens with your private fire pit and cottage chairs overlooking the ocean.
It's a fantastic place to sit and watch the sunset with a glass of farm-crafted cider. Keep an eye out for the seals that like to play and splash around.
See our full review of glamping at Fossil Beach Farm.
8. Walk along a hidden beach to see cool rock formations
Cool rock formations!
Venture out at low tide to find a hidden beach just south of Ford's Cove Store.
You will find cool rock formations that look like fossilized spider webs and some small carved out caves on the side of the shore.
9. Eat top-notch pizza from Hornby Island Bakery & Pizzeria
The Betty Special from Hornby Island Bakery & Pizzeria
The pizzas from Hornby Island Bakery & Pizzeria are just as special as their history, and chatting with owner Jon makes the experience even better with his infectious laugh.
The family-owned pizza joint has been around since the 1970s and all started when Jon's parents and their friends purchased 80 acres of land collectively on Hornby Island.
To help pay the property taxes, his parents took their traveling pizza cart around BC to music festivals and craft fairs.
The family recipe has been a Hornby Island staple throughout the decades - in fact, it was Jon's daughter that made us our pie!
We took our pizza back to our fire pit to watch the sunset. It was a wonderful evening!
10. Go for a cider tasting at Fossil Beach Farm
Visit Fossil Beach Farm's tasting room and try a flight of their handcrafted ciders. They are made from a blend of apples from their own orchard and other orchards in BC. Some ciders are unique, like their cider infused with blackberries from the farm and their carbonated margarita-style cider.
We tasted 6 ciders at the picnic table and enjoyed comparing them with the tasting notes they gave us.
Cidery hours: May - June: Sat & Sun 1-5pm | July-Sept: Wed - Sun 1-5pm
11. Hunt for Fossils on Fossil Beach
Note: Fossil Beach Farm recommends keeping anything you find, including fossils, on the beach for others to enjoy as well.
12. Eat a farm-to-fork brunch at Forage
Forage Farm & Kitchen at Ringside Market
Take a seat by the windows opening up onto the plaza of Ringside Market and enjoy a farm-to-fork brunch.
Forage uses fresh ingredients daily from its family-run farm and creates its menu based on what's in season.
Don't miss our list of 7 Hornby Island Restaurants you don't want to miss.
13. Try local wines at a winery
There are two wineries on the island that offer wine tastings, Hornby Heart Winery and Hornby Island Winery.
Stop in for a tasting in the tasting room and have a glass of your favourite outside on their picnic tables overlooking the vineyard.
14. Catch live music and sunset at Thatch Waterfront Pub
If you're visiting Hornby Island on a summer weekend, make time for an evening at Thatch Waterfront Pub.
Perched above Ford Cove Marina, it's one of the island's most popular gathering spots for both locals and visitors. It's also one of the best spots to catch the sunset.
We grabbed a table overlooking the marina, ordered dinner (which was excellent), and it wasn't long before the live music got everyone dancing.
Check out their Facebook page for events.
15. Taste mead with a view at Middle Mountain Mead
Middle Mountain Mead
Middle Mountain Mead was an unexpected oasis. After driving up a gravel road and walking up a grassy path, we were excited to see the beautiful honey winery come into view.
If you're unfamiliar with mead, it's similar to wine or cider, but fermented with honey. Creative variations can be made with different spices and fruits.
We walked past the grassy picnic area and up the stairs to the tasting room with two stories of outdoor seating.
Once we ordered our mead tasting inside, our friendly server told us to sit wherever we liked. We found the perfect spot at the top with an ocean view.
The mead-maker placed vintage tasting glasses on our table and explained each of the five meads we tried. Our favourite was their lavender citrus liqueur - perfect for summer!
The 20% ABV liqueurs stood out to us, since you can mix them with sparkling water to make a refreshing cocktail.
The tasting fee is waived with a bottle purchase, and in high season, they serve charcuterie bites for summer.
16. Discover local makers at the Hornby Island Artisan Market
Hornby Island has a thriving creative community, with a diverse mix of painters, musicians, photographers, and artisans.
One of the best ways to experience it is by visiting the Hornby Island Artisan Market, held in the middle of a forest.
We wandered between the stalls chatting with local makers and came home with handcrafted jewellery and a wooden spoon from Curly Burl Woodworks, made using a fractal wood-burning technique.
Market hours:
- May long weekend - June: Saturdays
- July–August: Wednesdays and Saturdays
- September: Saturdays
17. Dine with ocean views at The Breeze Restaurant
18. Shop the pretty boutique at the nursery
Baird&Co. boutique shop at the nursery
Tucked away in the nursery is a cute boutique store called Baird&Co. They have a great selection of plants, housewares, art, clothing and handcrafted products from local artisans.
Also don't miss the cute boutique next door, The Sweeet Spot, for vintage and funky clothing.
19. Pick up fresh tacos and burritos at Vorizo Cafe
For a delicious brunch, make a stop at Vorizo Cafe in the heart of Ringside Market.
Their tacos and burritos are packed with fresh toppings and house-made sauces. I went back a second time it was so good.
Go for their breakfast taco with egg, cheese, homemade organic beans, pickled cabbage, pico de gallo, avocado crema, and chipotle aioli.
If you're hungry, the burritos are generously sized, and also easy to share if you have them cut in half.
20. Walk along Sandpiper Beach - a geological wonder
Sandpiper Beach
Sandpiper Beach was one of the most impressive beaches we saw on Hornby Island.
At low tide, the shore looks like a geological wonder with its layers of flat-topped shale, honeycomb weathered sandstone and bright green seaweed.
Drive to the Sandpiper Beach Community Park and take a walk along this striking beach.
21. Go on a serene hike through Helliwell Provincial Park
Hiking through Helliwell Provincial Park
Hiking through Helliwell Provincial Park is a must-do on Hornby Island. The former farm was donated by John Helliwell in 1966 and is now one of the island's most scenic areas.
The easy 3.5km loop first takes you through a forest of old-growth Douglas firs before emerging onto a rocky headland with long grasses, wildflowers, and a spectacular ocean and mountain view.
The setting looks like something out of a fairytale. As you walk along the cliffside trail, keep an eye out for wildlife like eagles, seals, and otters.
22. Go stand up paddle boarding during golden hour at Fossil Beach
Take a delightful paddle at Fossil Beach during golden hour when the seals are out.
This is one of the best places to see the sunset on the island. If you're staying at Fossil Beach Farm, SUP boards are included in your stay.
23. Eat BBQ bites and listen to live music at Sunday Sessions
On Sundays, Fossil Beach Farm hosts their "Sunday Sessions" with live music and juicy BBQ bites. Get your hands on a chargrilled burger and listen to some tunes.
See their events page for who's playing.
24. Visit local artists in their studios
Get a glimpse into the lives of local artists by visiting one of the island's many studios. Just use this handy Hornby Island Arts Map to see where all the studios are on the island.
Call ahead to see if they are open to avoid disappointment.
If visiting artist studios is at the top of your list we highly recommend visiting in July/August.
We were visiting in June and only 2 of 12 artists we called were accepting visitors at the time since they were priming up for the July/August season.
We were lucky to see the studios of Cindy Anderson, who makes beautiful porcelain bowls, and Rachelle Chinnery, who makes unique ceramics in her tranquil garden space.
25. Browse a bookstore inside a converted trailer
Housed inside a charming converted trailer, Beltane Books is one of Hornby Island's most unique little shops.
Pop in to browse its collection of used, rare, and new books before carrying on with your island adventures.
26. Grab a breakfast pastry from Hummingbird Bread Co.
Humming Bread Company at Ringside Market
Start off your morning with a delightful pastry from the cute food cart at Hummingbird Bread Co.
Their daily creations of sweet and savoury baked goods are sure to get your taste buds going. We loved their ham and Swiss cheese brioche.
Afterwards, pop into Lix next door for a coffee.
27. Check out a local Hornby Island event
Hornby Island has a calendar of community events throughout the year, from live music events to festivals.
We happened to visit during Hornby Pride and had an absolute blast. After a colourful parade with some seriously amazing outfits, everyone made their way to Ringside Market where a DJ had the whole community out dancing.
It perfectly captured the welcoming, creative spirit that makes Hornby Island so special.
5 Things to Know Before Visiting Hornby Island
Here is a summary of our best tips, so you can explore the island with breeze!
1. Restaurant and boutique store hours on Google are not accurate
Look at their social media pages for updated hours.
2. Eateries and grocery stores close early on the island
Familiarize yourself with closing times - you don't want to go hungry for dinner! The latest convenience/grocery store that is open is Ford's Cove Store. Hours: July/August: 7:30 am-9:30 pm; September - June: 8am - 8pm.
3. The island doesn't officially "come alive" until July/August months.
If you are excited to visit spots like studios and wineries, you will need to plan accordingly. If you travel outside of July/August, ensure it's on a weekend so you don't miss the artisan market and live music events. Some restaurants are also only open on weekends.
4. Make dinner reservations in advance
Since there aren't many restaurants, make your reservation online in advance to avoid disappointment - especially for The Breeze at Sea Breeze Lodge.
5. The Hornby Island tourism map times aren't always accurate
You can't fully trust the Hornby Island tourism map for accurate hours. For example, Hornby Island Winery actually opened July 1, not June like the map said. Social media pages are the way to go for updated hours.
We hope you enjoyed these fun things to do on Hornby Island!
Start planning your trip to Hornby Island
- 🛏️ Accommodation: HornbyIsland.com is the best place to browse different stays.
- ⛴️ Book your ferry: BC Ferries
- 🚗 Car rental: see Rentalcars.com to compare car rental prices across different companies.
Combine Hornby Island with a road trip through Vancouver Island. See our Vancouver Island itinerary.
Want to explore more of the Gulf Islands? Check out our other island travel guides:
- Fun things to do on Salt Spring Island
- Top things to do on Galiano Island
- Best things to do on Pender Island
- Unique things to do on Gabriola Island
Or, explore the lesser known Discovery Islands:
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